Meet the American who spread global gospel of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii’s original Big Kahuna

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Meet the American who spread global gospel of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii’s original Big Kahuna

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Duke Kahanamoku was a real-life American aquaman. 

“The Father of Surfing” rode the pipeline of recognition he achieved as an Olympic champion to change into the soft-spoken savior of Hawaiian heritage foretold in a king’s deathbed prophecy.

“The ocean is my temple, the waves my prayers,” Kahanamoku reportedly stated, one of many quotes which have helped give browsing its spirit of oneness with the water. 

“Every wave is a chance to be reborn.”

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He is, amongst different issues, the original “Big Kahuna” – American slang of Hawaiian origin for a dominant persona. 

Kahanamoku’s legendary exploits started splashing by Hawaii’s aquamarine surf at record-setting pace, powered solely by muscular legs and arms. 

Meet the American who spread global gospel of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii’s original Big Kahuna

Hawaiian swimming stars Duke Kahanamoku, left, and his youthful brother, Sam, at a break throughout the tryouts at the Olympic Pool in Long Beach, California, for the 1924 Summer Olympics.  (Underwood Archives/Getty Images)

He received 5 Olympic medals – three of them gold – representing the United States earlier than Hawaii was one of them. 

The Big Kahuna grew into a world icon in between the Olympics, skimming the surf on his 16-foot, 114-pound, natural-wood longboard with awe-inspiring dexterity. 

“To us, he’s the king of surfing.”

Surfing grew to become an Olympic sport for the first time in 2020. 

It returns to the Paris games this week. Surfers round the world acknowledge Duke as royalty. 

“To us, he’s the king of surfing,” Kelly Slater, 11-time World Surf League champion, stated in the 2022 PBS documentary “Waterman – Duke: Ambassador of Aloha.”

Kahanamoku displayed “superhuman” abilities with a legendary rescue at sea, appeared in function movies and spent his twilight years as the state’s official “Ambassador of Aloha.”

Duke Kahanamoku surfing

Duke Kahanamoku doing one of his stunts with a surfboard at Corona Del Mar, California, whereas touring 40 miles per hour on the crest of waves.  (NY Daily News Archive by way of Getty Images)

Kahanamoku was born at a time of tumult in his native society and is, by many accounts, the spirit foretold in a royal prophecy.

“Before they are entirely gone, there will come one in my image who shall have within himself all the glorious strength of a dying race,” Hawaii’s King Kamehameha reportedly introduced on his deathbed in 1819. 

“He shall be honored throughout the world, and he shall bring fame to my people.”

‘A flutter kick and powerful strokes’

Duke Paoa Kahanamoku was born on Aug. 24, 1890, in Haleʻākala, a landmark house in Honolulu constructed of pink coral and recognized for its affiliation with members of Hawaii’s royal household. 

Kahanamoku was not amongst them. Duke was not a title, however his given title. His father, additionally Duke, was a police officer; his mom, Julia, was described as a trustworthy Christian. 

They had eight different youngsters.

Duke or Sam Kahanamoku

Duke Kahanamoku together with his board at a seashore in Australia, 1936.  (Harry Martin/Fairfax Media by way of Getty Images)

The household moved to Waikiki, its seashore right now one of the world’s favourite surfside trip spots, underneath the dramatic emerald sparkle of Diamond Head.

Kahanamoku gained nationwide consideration in 1911 with a swimming efficiency that also defies credulity. 

A newcomer to official competitors, he swam the 100-meter freestyle in the salt water of Honolulu Harbor in 55.4 seconds – shattering the world document by 4.6 seconds. 

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“AAU officials on the mainland were in disbelief and questioned whether it was a legitimate time,” reviews the web site of the United States Olympic & Paralympic Museum. “Indeed it was, as they would soon see.”

Surfers Waikiki

Native Hawaiians driving their surfboards at Waikiki Beach with Diamond Head in the background, Honolulu, Hawaii, circa 1925. (Underwood Archives/Getty Images)

Kahanamoku’s secret was a “a new style of swimming,” the museum writes, “with a flutter kick and powerful strokes.”

The Honolulu boy earned a spot on the U.S. Olympic staff at the Stockholm video games in 1912. He received his first gold medal in the 100-meter freestyle — including a silver as half of the males’s 4×200 freestyle relay staff.

“AAU officials on the mainland were in disbelief.”

He added two extra gold medals in the 1920 Olympics in Antwerp, in the similar two occasions.

Kahanamoku received his last Olympic medal, silver, in 1924 behind fellow American Johnny Weissmuller. The gold medalist grew to become a Hollywood icon, starring in 12 movies as Tarzan in the Thirties and Forties. 

Kahanamoku would additionally change into a well-known face on the big screen — however solely after kicking up a global sports activities tsunami together with his surfboard. 

‘Superhuman rescue’

David Kalakaua, the final king of Hawaii, opened his island paradise empire to the world earlier than dying in 1891, simply 5 months after Kahanamoku was born. 

Kahanamoku and Weissmuller

Olympic gold medalists Duke Kahanamoku, left, and Johnny Weissmuller, who later performed Tarzan in 12 Hollywood motion pictures, on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, Hawaii, circa 1927.  (PhotoQuest/Getty Images)

Among selections with an unexpected influence on world occasions, the king signed an 1875 treaty to offer the United States unique use of Pearl Harbor.

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Outside influences introduced dramatic modifications to Hawaiian tradition. 

“By the end of the 19th century,” reviews Surfer Today, “foreign missionaries had almost ‘erased’ surfing, or the act of riding waves, from the Hawaiian Islands.”

Kahanamoku impressed browsing’s revival out of love for the sport and legendary abilities. 

Duke Kahanamoku illustration

An commercial for Valspar Varnish options an illustration of 4 males browsing the waves at Waikiki, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1922.  (Jim Heimann Collection/Getty Images)

Kahanamoku skilled for the Olympics on each the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, browsing in his spare time.

His unbelievable rides skimming the waves with dolphin-like dexterity grew to become a world sensation – particularly Down Under.

“His widely publicized surfing exhibition … lit the fuse to popularize surfing in Australia.”

“His broadly publicized browsing exhibition on Jan. 10, 1915, lit the fuse to popularize surfing in Australia,” Eric Middledrop of the Freshwater Surf Life Saving Club, simply north of Sydney in New South Wales, informed Fox News Digital by way of e-mail.

“The rest of the world soon followed.”

People who had by no means seen the ocean adopted the Big Kahuna’s browsing exploits 10 years later, throughout a legendary feat of humanity that generated worldwide headlines. 

Duke Kahanamoku, the Big Kahuna

A portrait of swimming and browsing star Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii, circa 1912.  (Underwood Archives/Getty Images)

While browsing at Corona del Mar, California, in 1925, Kahanamoku watched with horror when a 40-foot yacht was swamped by an enormous wave. 

Seventeen passengers had been tossed into the ocean, many badly harm. 

“I reached the screaming and gagging victims and began grabbing at their frantic arms and legs.” 

“I reached the screaming and gagging victims and began grabbing at their frantic arms and legs,” Kahanamoku stated in up to date information accounts.

He rescued eight folks on 4 or extra journeys backwards and forwards to the shore on his board; fellow surfers saved 4 extra.

Duke Kahanamoku and Roosevelt boys

Franklin D. Roosevelt Jr. and John Roosevelt are pictured with Duke Kahanamoku, heart. President Roosevelt, together with his sons, made the first go to of a sitting U.S. president to Hawaii in 1934. Kahanamoku gave non-public browsing classes to the Roosevelt sons.  (Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library & Museum/Public Domain)

“Kahanamoku’s performance was the most superhuman rescue act and the finest display of surfboard riding that has ever been seen in the world,” Newport Beach Police Chief Jim Porter informed the Los Angeles Times in a interval account. 

“Many more would have drowned but for the quick work of the Hawaiian swimmer.”

‘Ambassador of Aloha’

Duke Kahanamoku died on Jan. 22, 1968. He was 77 years outdated and was buried at sea.

The Big Kahuna’s legend solely grew in later life.

Duke Kahanamoku on movie set

Duke Kahanamoku enjoying a Native chief in the 1955 movie “Mister Roberts.” Kahanamoku was an Olympic swimming champion earlier than his appearing profession and went on to function Honolulu’s sheriff for 26 years.  (Slim Aarons/Getty Images)

He appeared on the massive display screen in 15 movies, together with in “Wake of the Red Witch” with one other iconic American “Duke,” his pal John Wayne. 

Kahanamoku, in his free time, performed ukulele, adopted by Polynesian performers from Portuguese sailors, his musicianship forging the instrument’s affiliation with Hawaiian harmonies. 

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“He was known to spontaneously dance hula,” in accordance with a Facebook account from Duke’s Waikiki, a preferred Honolulu watering gap named in honor of the hometown hero. 

“His larger-than-life presence helped America proclaim Hawaii as the 50th state, melding two cultures into one United States,” boasts the Discover Hawaii web site.

Duke Kahanamoku postage stamp

Museum volunteer Cisco Torres hangs a duplicate image of a United States postage stamp of browsing legend Duke Kahanamoku at the Huntington Beach International Surfing Museum in California.  (Glenn Koenig/Los Angeles Times by way of Getty Images)

Kahanamoku was named Hawaii’s official global “Ambassador of Aloha” when it joined the Union in 1959, some say fulfilling the prophecy of King Kamehameha: 

“He shall be honored throughout the world, and he shall bring fame to my people.”

To learn extra tales on this distinctive “Meet the American Who…” sequence from Fox News Digital, click here

The Big Kahuna nonetheless scans the surf for barrels and bombs round the world. He’s honored with monuments on seashores in California, New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii. 

Duke’s statue on Waikiki Beach is each a bodily and cultural landmark of Hawaiian custom.

Duke Kahanamoku statue

Duke Kahanamoku Statue at Waikiki Beach in Honolulu, Hawaii.  (Prisma Bildagentur/Universal Images Group by way of Getty Images)

The handmade surfboard he used to popularize browsing in Australia is a global treasure of the sport. It even has a human caretaker, very like hockey’s Stanley Cup. 

“We believe that this surfboard would probably be the most important piece of surfing memorabilia in Australia, if not the world,” stated Middledrop of the Freshwater Surf Lifesaving Club. 

The Aussie spokesperson’s digital signature speaks to the reverence for the Big Kahuna in surf tradition. Middledrop’s official title is “Duke Kahanamoku Surfboard Caretaker.”

Duke Kahanamoku split

Duke Kahanamoku was a three-time Olympic gold medalist in swimming who popularized browsing round the world.  (Hulton Archive/Getty Images; NY Daily News Archive by way of Getty Images; Slim Aarons/Getty Images)

Kahanamoku loved equal reverence in the PBS “Waterman” documentary.

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“When you come across something that is just so genuine and so good, you can’t help but drop whatever you think you know about people,” stated narrator Jason Momoa.

“He changed lives just by being who he was.” 

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