Unlocking the Flavor: What ‘Gay Food’ Really Means in Two New Must-Read Books

John Birdsall, in his book, “What Is Queer Food?”, dives deep into a topic that has occupied him for years. As a cook turned journalist, he explores how food intersects with identity. Over the last decade, food media has become more open about issues of identity and diversity. Birdsall has even won awards for his groundbreaking articles like “America, Your Food Is So Gay.”

He grapples with the essence of queer food: Is it about specific dishes like rainbow cakes or drag brunches? Birdsall eventually realizes that there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Just as there isn’t a single definition of queerness, queer food is not a commodity. Instead, it’s a complex web of individual stories and experiences that shape our culinary landscape.

In his book, Birdsall sheds light on influential figures like Harry Baker, who moved to Los Angeles from Ohio and created a cake style that became iconic in Hollywood, and Esther Eng, a pioneering filmmaker turned restaurateur in the early 20th century. Both stories illustrate how personal journeys can shape cultural narratives.

Craig Claiborne, the famed food editor of The New York Times, reviewed Eng’s restaurant in the 1960s, significantly contributing to the cultural landscape of American dining. Claiborne’s influence on food criticism remains unmatched, but his own life was marred by personal struggles, highlighting the complexities behind the glamorous food industry.

Birdsall’s writing is captivating. He intertwines meticulous research with beautiful prose, unearthing stories of resilience amid societal challenges. His narrative is peppered with figures like James Baldwin and Alice B. Toklas, who sought peace and acceptance away from prying eyes.

Similarly, Erik Piepenburg’s book, “Dining Out: First Dates, Defiant Nights and Last Call Disco Fries at America’s Gay Restaurants,” shifts the focus to the spaces where queer culture thrives. With many establishments closing down, he reflects on the loss of community landmarks like The Melrose diner in Chicago, which served as a hub for LGBTQ folks for over five decades.

Piepenburg interviewed restaurant owners and patrons across the U.S. to capture the essence of these spaces. He nods to establishments that have persevered but also acknowledges the fading memories tied to closures. Dining spots are more than just places to eat; they’re vessels of shared experiences and cultural history.

Both authors highlight the bond between food and community, emphasizing that these connections are vital, especially in today’s rapidly changing landscape. They remind us of the importance of celebrating queer culinary traditions while also pushing for visibility and preservation of these spaces.

Amidst the exploration, there’s a hint of nostalgia. Piepenburg mourns a “golden age” of gay restaurants, reflecting a collective memory that weaves in and out of personal anecdotes—a reminder that food often encapsulates shared stories.

Birdsall and Piepenburg’s works come at a meaningful time, coinciding with Pride Month, but their insights extend well beyond a calendar event. They celebrate vibrant cultures and communities, underscoring the transformative power of food in bringing people together.

For more information on LGBTQ+ food culture, you can explore resources from organizations like the James Beard Foundation that continue to highlight diverse voices in the culinary world.

Source link