Rediscovering My Roots: A Culinary Journey Through East India’s Vibrant Food Scene

Kolkata is a bustling city and was once the capital of India under British rule. It’s home to nearly 16 million people who have a deep love for food. In Kolkata, the food culture is vibrant, featuring everything from street snacks to elaborate meals. You’ll find roasted corn with lime, Chinese noodles brought by immigrants, and fish dishes that hint at far-off places like Normandy.

When I moved to the U.S. nearly two decades ago, I noticed that Kolkata’s diverse cuisine was often overlooked in American perceptions of Indian food. It puzzled me how a city so renowned for its culinary delights didn’t make a bigger splash abroad. Fast forward to July 2023: after three years away, my family and I returned. I was ready to eat all my favorite dishes, but more than that, I wanted to reconnect with my roots, not just as a visitor but as someone who belonged.

Our mornings began at Rabindra Sarobar Lake. We grabbed green coconuts from a vendor and enjoyed the refreshing water and soft flesh. As we walked around the lake, I watched my son play, surrounded by nature. It was a peaceful slice of home.

One morning, we found our way to Maharaj Snacks. It’s a local gem, where we tasted hing er kochuri, a flatbread filled with lentils and served with spicy potato curry. The food was fried in oil that had seen many meals, but it was delicious and comforting.

Lunch was a trip down memory lane with simple yet cherished dishes like rice, lentils, and fried eggplant. My mom would cook treats like ilish, a delicacy from the Bay of Bengal. I remembered turning my nose up at it as a child. It required effort to eat, but now I found pleasure in every bite.

In the afternoon, my mom and I snacked on hojmi, sweet and spicy treats, and aam shotto, mango leather. At local markets like Dakshinapan, you can sample these delights before buying. I recalled the tangy lime pickle I loved as a child, its sharp flavor still vivid in my memory.

Kolkata takes its tea seriously. Black Darjeeling and Assam tea are popular, often served with snacks inspired by British cuisine. We indulged in fried fish fingers and dim’er devil, a spiced egg wrapped in minced meat. Even if a dish is just okay, savoring it fresh out of the kitchen is a joy in itself.

Dinner sometimes started with street food too. We grabbed kathi rolls—flaky paratha filled with egg, kebabs, and zesty sauces—from a small shop in Gariahat market. Watching the cooks prepare each roll was like witnessing a little performance.

The city’s culinary history is rich. The Nawab of Awadh, after being exiled by the British, brought chefs who fused traditions, creating Kolkata-style biryani with potatoes and eggs. I savored a plate from Karim’s, filled with complex flavors that told a story.

One evening, we tried kebabs from Riyasat, a place I had never visited growing up. It was nostalgic, yet different. But some experiences still disappointed, and my past favorite, Mocambo, didn’t live up to my memories.

Food has a way of grounding us. I remembered my grandma, who loved sweets. She’d often suggest ledikeni, soft cheese sweets. I still preferred Black Forest cake from Kookie Jar, each slice moist and fluffy.

One day, I sought shingara, a pastry similar to samosas, at a bakery but was told it was an evening treat. It’s fascinating how meal times are structured in Kolkata—each dish has its right moment. There’s a rhythm to it all, a life entwined with flavors.

Each bite I took was more than just food; it was a connection to home, a reminder of who I am and where I came from.

For a deeper look into Kolkata’s culinary landscape, check out articles from sources like BBC Travel and National Geographic.

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