Before dawn, a group of men gathered near Lake Suwa in Nagano, Japan. They were hoping to witness something called “God’s Crossing”—a rare sight that used to be common. Now, it’s becoming harder to see because of climate change.
“God’s Crossing,” or “miwatari,” occurs when cracks form in the frozen lake, creating ridges where deities are thought to walk. For centuries, the priest of Yatsurugi Shrine has led a watch for this event as part of a long-standing tradition and a unique record of climate shifts.
This year, the priest, Kiyoshi Miyasaka, kicked off the watch on January 5. Many here were hopeful. However, there’s been no sighting of God’s Crossing since 2018. As they approached the lake, Miyasaka’s smile faded when he saw the dark, choppy water. “How pitiful,” he remarked while checking the water temperature.
Historical records from the shrine date back to 1443, with continuous documentation beginning in 1683. Naoko Hasegawa, a geographer from Tokyo’s Ochanomizu University, noted the importance of these records, stating, “We find no other meteorological archive comparable to it.” This data helps researchers understand past climates and compare them with current trends.
Miyasaka shared that the absence of God’s Crossing is tied to climate change. “Nature doesn’t lie,” he said. Scientists explain that the crossing can only happen when the lake completely freezes, which has become less frequent due to rising temperatures.
Takehiko Mikami, a professor emeritus at Tokyo Metropolitan University, recalls when the lake would freeze solid enough to walk across. “In 1998, the ice was about 15 centimeters thick,” he said. He observed that the crossing appeared every winter until the 1980s. Since then, warmer nights have often prevented the lake from freezing over.
In 2023, hope flickered when a freeze was recorded on January 26. But it didn’t last. By February 4, the surface melted again, meaning little chance of witnessing the crossing. This marked the longest streak without a sighting since records began.
Mikami believes we might be experiencing an unprecedented absence of the crossing. Full freezes of the lake surface, once regular, are now rare. Miyasaka has only held a Shinto ritual on the ice 11 times in over 40 years. He cherishes these traditions and is aware of the legacy he is crafting.
“We will report it was a season of ‘open sea’,” Miyasaka remarked, aiming to pass this message to future generations. With increasing global temperatures, Mikami fears that God’s Crossing might become a thing of the past.
This story is not just about tradition; it serves as a reminder. Climate change is impacting cultures and rituals worldwide. For many, the lake is a living record of our changing planet—a symbol of nature’s power and a call to action.
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