Today marks the beginning of Ramadan, a time filled with deep emotions, especially in Sudan where conflict has lasted nearly three years. Amid this turmoil, Omer Al Tijani’s cookbook, The Sudanese Kitchen, emerges as a unique tribute to Sudan’s rich culinary heritage.
A Journey of Discovery
Al Tijani’s journey into Sudanese cuisine began during his university days in Manchester. He missed his mother’s homemade food and found a gap in resources for Sudanese recipes. Over 15 years, he traveled across Sudan, documenting the variety of dishes and their cultural significance, intertwining food with the nation’s political struggles.
He shared, “As I delved into this project, we were caught up in the revolution. We traveled across Sudan, navigating protests and fuel shortages. The spirit of change was everywhere in Khartoum.”
His exploration revealed a cuisine rich in diversity—a blend of African and Arab influences shaped by Sudan’s varied landscapes. Interestingly, Al Tijani discovered mushrooms cultivated in some regions, surprising even himself. For many Sudanese, much of their own culinary history remains largely unknown.
The Weight of War
Al Tijani’s book now resonates differently, colored by the trauma of war. “At the launch, many felt emotional. It was like the country was breathing again, bringing forth joy and nostalgia,” he noted. Food now carries a weight, becoming a symbol of loss rather than mere pleasure.
The ongoing war has led to an unprecedented humanitarian crisis. As of now, Sudan faces the highest levels of displacement in the world. According to a recent report from the World Food Programme, millions are struggling with hunger, forcing many to flee their homes. This has made the acts of cooking and gathering around food not only a way to sustain life but also a reminder of what society has lost.
Ramadan Reflections
During Ramadan, the ambiance shifts dramatically. Traditionally, Sudanese meals are elaborate, centered around coming together in homes rather than fast food restaurants. Al Tijani describes the early days of Ramadan as a culinary crescendo, where people unite to prepare and share meals.
The rituals of this month evoke a sense of community; people cross neighborhoods to help each other cook and celebrate. “Ramadan used to feel like a wedding,” he reminisced.
Breaking the fast with hearty dishes, like a flavorful peanut broth, becomes a sacred moment, a reminder of home amidst chaos.
Keeping Sudan Alive
Despite the challenges, Al Tijani sees his culinary work as a form of resistance, striving to keep Sudan’s story alive. He emphasized, “This book maintains our narrative. These recipes are fixed elements of our existence.”
By sharing Sudanese food culture, he counters harmful perceptions often seen in media narratives. Food, for him, is not just sustenance; it is a connection to identity and resilience.
As we celebrate Ramadan, may we keep Sudan in our thoughts and hearts, recognizing that behind every dish lies a story of heritage, survival, and hope.
