Last month, I found myself at the Bruce pop-up in L.A. after a frustrating evening of restaurant hunting. My friend and I had planned to arrive early at a popular spot, but a late doctor’s appointment threw a wrench in our plans. By the time I was free, every good place was packed.
“Wilde’s isn’t taking more names,” I heard. Then “90-minute wait at Hermon’s” and later, “Same story at Vandell.” It clicked: I remembered my colleague Stephanie Breijo’s recent article on Bruce, a new pop-up by chefs Brittany Ha, Hannah Grubba, and Alex Riley. They’d teamed up after losing their jobs at Horses, a restaurant that closed suddenly last December. The name Bruce even honors Ha’s infant son.
We decided to give it a shot. Miraculously, we snagged the last two barstools right before the place overflowed. And wow, the food! First up was tuna carpaccio, beautifully arranged like stained glass—fresh, vibrant, and simply stunning. Then came clams in a bright, herby broth, alongside crispy fries.
One surprising dish was pastina cooked in Parmesan broth, enriched with saffron and butter—it tasted like the luxurious oatmeal of my dreams. Strange yet delightful!
For dessert, Grubba had crafted whimsical puff pastry swans, filled with banana pudding. It was playful and delicious, perfectly reflecting the spirit of L.A.’s pop-up culture. The chefs showcased a unique flair, blending influences from their previous work at Horses into dishes that felt both familiar and refreshing.
As we savored the evening, I could see Ha, Grubba, and Riley working seamlessly together, creating an energetic vibe that made for an unforgettable dining experience. They even served wines from Emilia-Romagna, which complemented the food beautifully.
By the end of February, Bruce found a new home at Justine’s Wine Bar in Frogtown, continuing to impress locals. It’s clear this team has something special, blending personal touches into everything they create. The dishes evolve each week, so there’s always something new to try, like salt-and-pepper shrimp with a twist.
One dish you won’t want to miss is the pastina, even richer this time with an extra zing from the saffron. And the desserts? They remain a highlight, featuring sorbets and cakes that evoke a modern twist on classic flavors.
So what lies ahead for Bruce? There’s potential for it to grow into its own restaurant. But for now, followers will have to tune in on Instagram to see where this culinary journey takes them next.
