Brasserie Constance: A Culinary Gem in London SW6 – Grace Dent’s In-Depth Review of This Elevated Dining Experience

Over lunch at Brasserie Constance in Fulham, I found myself in a surreal situation. Picture this: claypot chicken with barley, surrounded by diners laughing and enjoying their meals. I couldn’t help but feel a little like Kim Jong-un, observing a world that seemed curated just for me.

But let’s rewind for a moment. Finding Brasserie Constance was an adventure in itself. This new spot, created by chef Adam Byatt, claims to be on the banks of the Thames, offering a dreamy riverside experience. Named after Constance Spry, a legendary florist and cook, the restaurant promises delightful dishes like coronation chicken pâté en croûte. It all sounds idyllic.

However, I soon discovered that this charming restaurant is tucked away inside Craven Cottage, home of Fulham Football Club. My taxi dropped me off by the ticket kiosk, and finding my way to the restaurant felt like a treasure hunt. No signs, no directions. Even the staff at the club seemed unaware of this new venture.

After some wandering, I was finally led to a lavish dining room that resembled a cruise ship’s private dining area. Realistically, this place caters to those who enjoy upscale lunches, reminiscent of the River Cafe.

We sat at a table in an eerily quiet restaurant, the warm staff surprised to see us—actual customers! We started with fried skate knobs and corn tarts, both delicious. The Dorset crab vol-au-vent was a standout—sweet, flaky, and rich in flavor—though the coronation chicken pâté arrived a bit dry.

Suddenly, things took a strange turn. Around us, tables filled with twentysomethings. Yet, none seemed to be truly dining. They appeared to be pretending, acting out a lunch scene for an unseen audience. It was uncanny.

As we enjoyed the claypot chicken—flavored with herbs and barley—a realization hit me. “They’re not eating!” I exclaimed. My guest agreed, suggesting they were likely from the marketing team. We watched as they pretended to chat and eat, while we savored our meal in bemusement.

By dessert time—a rich treacle, date, and walnut tart—the “diners” began leaving, musing about their fictitious lunch. “This is how Kim Jong-un must feel,” I joked, concluding that my experience at Brasserie Constance was unlike any other.

While whimsical, there’s an underlying message here about dining culture. In a world where social media often blurs the lines between reality and facade, Brasserie Constance showcased a unique, if bewildering, slice of life.

If you’re looking for a twist on the dining experience, Brasserie Constance might just be worth a visit, but don’t be surprised if reality feels a little staged.



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