Sometimes, a restaurant experience sticks with you far longer than just the meal itself. At Koba in Fitzrovia, London, my lasting memory is of a warm, sugary doughnut filled with sweet bean paste and paired with buckwheat tea. It was that kind of treat that brightened a chilly winter day, especially after battling wind and umbrellas.
Koba, owned by Linda Lee, has been a staple in the area for 20 years. Known for its traditional Korean barbecue, the restaurant recently underwent a makeover. They’ve revamped the interior, moving away from dark wood tables and hot plates to a lighter, more inviting atmosphere. This change nods to the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection.
The menu has also shifted. While Koba still offers classic dishes, they’ve added modern twists. Dishes like mul hwei, a visually stunning bowl of fresh seafood topped with trout roe and a spiced vinaigrette, cater to Instagram-loving diners. Other starters show off Korean flavors, like fried cuttlefish and pancakes made with vegetables and fermented sauce.
While some may miss the grill-your-own concept, letting skilled chefs handle the cooking usually results in better flavor. Take their dak galbi, for example—chicken marinated in gochujang sauce, served with pickles and fresh greens. It’s a standout dish that lets the rich flavors shine without any fuss.
Koba has adapted to survive in an ever-changing restaurant scene. Some beloved eateries have vanished, like Elena’s Etoile, while others struggle. According to a recent report by The Restaurant Group, many local favorites have been forced to close their doors due to rising costs and changing dining habits. Koba’s reinvention seems to be paying off.
Desserts are another highlight. Their doughnut with fresh vanilla ice cream and sweet persimmon is utterly delightful. The emphasis on quality ingredients and enticing presentation makes it worth lingering a bit longer over dessert.
Koba’s ability to evolve after two decades is admirable. In a city where dining options come and go, Koba’s charm and creativity keep it relevant. Here’s to many more years of memorable meals—one delicious doughnut at a time.
