Not all MICHELIN-starred restaurants sit in upscale neighborhoods. One surprising gem is Holbox, a casual counter in south Los Angeles’s Mercado La Paloma. But don’t be fooled by the setting; the food here is as refined as any fine dining spot in the city.
Chef/owner Gilberto Cetina had a different path in mind. He started out in computer science, trying hard to avoid the kitchen. He jokes, “It took me years to start cooking, probably due to childhood memories of making tamales with my family for church sales.”
Eventually, Cetina found his passion for cooking, especially seafood, inspired by his teenage years in the Yucatán. “Diving and spearfishing were my favorite activities. Cooking what I caught made me truly connect with my food,” he recalls. After moving back to L.A., he began working at his father’s stall, Chichén Itza, diving deeper into Yucatán flavors.
Originally, Holbox was meant to be a small ceviche bar, an extension of Chichén Itza. But the day before opening, Cetina decided to expand the menu to include grilled items. “I wanted to create my spin on mariscos, using fresh, sustainably sourced seafood,” he says.
Southern California provides a wealth of seafood, usually seen in sushi restaurants. “Why not use this wonderful seafood in Mexican cuisine?” Cetina asked himself. His approach transforms mariscos into a unique Angeleno experience, blending local ingredients with traditional techniques from Mexico.
The dishes at Holbox reflect the flavors of the Yucatán, emphasizing high acidity and vibrant spices. Key elements like sofritos and recados, both staples of Yucatán cuisine, create a foundation for delicious flavors. “Recados are spice mixes turned into sauces and marinades. Sofritos are aromatic vegetables cooked down for rich, thick sauces,” explains Cetina. Together, these techniques elevate dishes like taco de pulpo en su pinta, a house favorite.
Guests can choose from the à la carte menu or indulge in a tasting experience offered twice a week. Here, Cetina explores creative possibilities, working with special ingredients like geoduck clams and abalone.
What sets Holbox apart is its lively, informal vibe. Guests don’t get the full fine-dining experience but rather a fun adventure. “We’re not a typical MICHELIN star restaurant. You’ll self-park and navigate a bustling food hall,” Cetina explains. “The best Mexican meals I’ve had have never been served on white tablecloths.”
Cetina asserts that Mexican cuisine deserves the same respect as any other culinary tradition. “Mexican food should include sea urchins and scallops — not as a gimmick but as a proper celebration of local flavors.”
Recent trends show that diners are increasingly drawn to authentic culinary experiences over pretentious ones. A survey by the National Restaurant Association found that 77% of respondents prefer casual dining experiences. Holbox fits perfectly into this trend while still achieving MICHELIN-star quality.
In conclusion, Holbox represents a unique blend of sustainability and innovation in Mexican seafood cuisine. It challenges the notion of what a star restaurant looks like, focusing instead on taste and quality without the fuss.
Hero Image: A trio of tacos – scallop, taco de pulpo, and baja fish taco. © Wonho Frank Lee
