It’s a warm summer day high in the Madonie mountains of Sicily, where a local farmer, Giulio Gelardi, is eager to introduce visitors to a special treat: manna. This unique, sweet, mineral-rich resin has a long history, mentioned 17 times in the Bible, and has been harvested in this region for over a thousand years.
As Gelardi points to the white streaks running along the bark of ash trees, it’s clear that this tradition nearly faded away in recent decades. Urbanization and industrial progress nearly wiped out manna harvesting, a practice that once thrived in Sicily. “For 30 years, I have worked to bring this ancient superfood back to life, and it’s now starting to shine again,” Gelardi explains.
Manna has a fascinating origin story. It is believed to be the same substance referred to in the Biblical tale where food fell from the sky to sustain the Israelites during their desert journey. Today, it is described as sweet, with a taste similar to sugar but with hints of almond.
This unique resource is not just a throwback; Gelardi’s revival efforts are seeing success. Between the 9th and 16th centuries, during the island’s prosperous trade days, manna fetched high prices. Farmers used to collect it to sell to merchants, impacting Sicily’s economy significantly.
However, after World War II, the art of harvesting manna nearly vanished. Gelardi, returning to Pollina in 1985, saw his community’s tradition slipping away. “When I returned, there were fewer than 100 farmers still gathering manna,” he recalls. With a passion to restore this skill, Gelardi began teaching locals and tourists about harvesting.
The process isn’t modern or mechanical. It requires careful observation of nature. “Manna harvesting is about understanding the tree. You listen to what it needs,” Gelardi emphasizes. Farmers learn to cut the bark when the tree produces enough sap, a skill passed down through the generations.
Despite challenges, Gelardi’s dedication is infectious, and he has brought younger generations along on this journey. He created a “clean manna” method that reduces contamination risk, increasing yield efficiently. This innovation allows local bakers and chefs to experiment with manna, adding it to desserts, pastries, and even savory dishes.
Recent statistics indicate a growing interest in natural, low-glycemic sweeteners. As Vivienne Spadaro, a botany professor at the University of Palermo, suggests, manna’s revitalization aligns with current health trends. It’s now recognized not only for its flavor but also for its health benefits, making it a sought-after ingredient among chefs.
Chefs like Giuseppe Zingales from Hostaria Cycas use manna in various dishes, from traditional desserts to innovative savory recipes. “Manna adds a unique touch. Just a bit enhances the taste beautifully,” he shares.
The resurgence is visible beyond the kitchen. The Madonie’s Manna Consortium, established by Gelardi and farmers, promotes the harvesting tradition and supports new local growers. Recent surveys show an 80% increase in interest among young people wanting to learn about this special farming technique.
Today’s chefs buy manna not just for local cuisine but also for gourmet products, and the price can reach as high as €200 per kilogram. It has become a trendy ingredient, even featured in health supplements and skincare products, making a notable impression on both culinary and wellness markets.
As Gelardi reflects on his journey, he sees hope in the eyes of young farmers like Mario Cicero, who have embraced the tradition. “Every young farmer who learns the art of harvesting manna preserves our history,” Gelardi says proudly.
Manna’s revival is more than just about food; it’s about preserving a culture, a legacy, and a connection to the land. This ancient Mediterranean jewel is reawakening, finding its place not only on plates but also in the hearts of a new generation.
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