Discovering the Sweet Legacy of Banana Ketchup: A Delicious Journey Through Our Nation’s Love Affair

As a kid, I couldn’t stand banana ketchup. I grew up near Subic Bay, where balikbayan boxes from relatives in the U.S. overflowed with imported goodies. Our pantry was packed with Spam, Libby’s, and Heinz. To me, banana ketchup felt like a cheap knockoff, too sweet for my palate.

But I was completely mistaken. Banana ketchup is a beloved staple in many Filipino kitchens. It pairs beautifully with fried chicken and lumpia and is the secret ingredient in many sauces, especially the barbecue glaze used by street vendors.

Interestingly, while banana ketchup has American origins, it has evolved into a truly Filipino condiment. Food historian Doreen Gamboa Fernandez noted that Filipino cuisine is a blend of influences. She described how our food absorbs and adapts, making it a unique reflection of our culture.

The journey of banana ketchup traces back to World War II. Maria Orosa, a Batangas-born food scientist, created it when tomatoes became scarce due to import bans. Instead, she turned to bananas, using saba, vinegar, sugar, and spices. This innovation not only satisfied taste buds but also provided a much-needed food source during tough times.

Orosa didn’t stop there; she developed soyalac, a soy powder that helped feed guerrillas and prisoners of war. Her efforts continued until her untimely death in 1945, but her legacy lived on through banana ketchup, which became a household name.

The Universal Food Corporation, known as UFC, claims its banana ketchup roots trace back to Magdalo V. Francisco. He began working on his version in 1938, establishing his brand in the 1960s. Another variation, Jufran, emerged later as well.

Today, Filipino cuisine finally receives the recognition it deserves on the global stage. However, banana ketchup continues to stir discussions. Recently, UFC faced backlash over allegations of worker abuse, prompting public calls for a boycott. Despite the controversy, this condiment has become a canvas for chefs to explore and reclaim culinary heritage.

For example, Toyo Eatery has reimagined banana ketchup using bulkan saba from Capas, Tarlac. They age the bananas and caramelize them with onions, garlic, and vinegar for a modern twist. Hapag has also joined in, creating its own version for various sauces.

If you’re looking for ethical alternatives, brands like Manalo Filipino offer fresh takes on this classic recipe using saba.

Banana ketchup, once just a substitute for tomatoes, has matured into a cherished condiment. It continues to represent the resilience and creativity of Filipino culture.

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