A coastal storm is expected to hit Sydney, Illawarra, and South Coast beaches this weekend. Waves could reach heights of four to five meters, making conditions dangerous for swimming, rock fishing, and boating.
What’s Happening?
Beach scientist Andrew Short noted that this storm might reshape the beaches, bringing much-needed surf after a “wave drought” this summer. Small waves have dominated the shoreline, frustrating local surfers.
The Bureau of Meteorology has issued a hazardous surf warning from Eden to the Illawarra starting Friday, extending to Sydney by Saturday. This could lead to coastal erosion and damage to local infrastructure, especially from Eden to Ulladulla.
Understanding the Waves
A coastal storm typically means waves exceed three meters for over 24 hours. While big waves can sometimes reach seven or eight meters during winter storms, this one isn’t expected to be as intense. Senior meteorologist Angus Hines indicated that waves at Sydney beaches might peak at about four meters.
Kristen Splinter, a professor at UNSW, explained that waves coming from the southeast will impact beaches differently. Those facing the southeast will see larger waves, while north-facing beaches will be more sheltered.
Past Patterns
Historically, Sydney winters have seen major storms, but this year has been quieter, leading to a build-up of sand on the beaches. As Short explained, this lack of storm activity has resulted in shallow surf zones, which are less appealing to surfers.
Potential Dangers
Seven people drowned in rough surf in New South Wales from December 31 to January 3, according to Royal Life Saving statistics. As the storm approaches, NSW Police are advising beachgoers to stay out of the water and avoid coastal rock platforms.
Local Reactions
Longtime Manly surfer Peter Anthony shared that while he’s seen bigger waves this summer, they can change quickly throughout the day. He enjoys the ocean’s unpredictability despite concerns over safety.
This weekend’s storm could reset the sandbars and provide better surf in the days following. Observers are hopeful that this might lead to improved conditions for surfers over the coming weeks.
For further information, you can check resources from the Bureau of Meteorology or Royal Life Saving.
