It only took one bite of Jonas Koh’s fried chicken to understand he has something special at his food stall. The chicken leg—huge and golden—was crispy outside and juicy inside, packed with just the right amount of spices. On the side was his signature sambal, a chili paste that added a delightful kick.
Koh, only 30, opened his food stall, The Kumpong Boys, in Ang Mo Kio, Singapore, in September 2024. He serves nasi lemak, a beloved dish from Malaysia featuring fragrant rice, sambal, chicken, an egg, anchovies, and cucumbers.
Despite earning a business degree to please his parents, Koh always dreamed of running his own restaurant. He began working in the food industry at 17, learning everything from waiting tables to cooking in kitchens.
Now, as his own boss, he faces a challenge. He chose his location for its affordable rent, but he soon discovered the neighborhood is home to mostly older residents who are price-sensitive. “Most people want meals under SGD 4,” he said, while his signature dishes are priced at SGD 6.90—his minimum due to rising ingredient costs.
Koh’s stall recently garnered attention, not just for its food but also for the struggle he faces to connect with a younger crowd. The predominance of older customers influences sales; for instance, sales drop significantly during religious observances when many choose vegetarian meals. He remarked that local temples occasionally offer free meals, further impacting his business.
Koh sells about 80 to 100 plates on good days, but only 30 to 40 on bad ones. He sees potential for growth in more vibrant areas, like near universities or central business districts.
Renowned food experts highlight that good location is key for food businesses. According to a recent survey by the National Restaurant Association, 55% of diners prioritize convenience when deciding where to eat. This data suggests that Koh’s strategy may need to adapt to attract a wider range of customers.
In Singapore, the hawker scene is competitive and constantly evolving. Young customers often flock to trendy stalls with unique offerings, prompting older eateries to rethink their menus or habits. Koh understands this and is contemplating relocating to reach a more diverse audience.
With the ongoing challenges of running a stall, he fears falling victim to the wave of eatery closures reported in the news. “Part of me worries I could end up like those stories,” he admits.
For now, Koh remains committed to his craft, taking pride in chopping vegetables and cooking curries while dreaming of a bustling future. His passion may just be the secret ingredient that helps him overcome the obstacles ahead.
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