Corey Lee: A Journey Through Culinary Heritage
Corey Lee, a celebrated chef, grew up in a New Jersey suburb where Korean food was not easy to find. He recalls a time when staples like gochujang and kimchi were rare. “A decade ago, I never imagined serving kimchi at a fine dining restaurant,” Lee shares, showing how much the culinary landscape has changed.
Today, Korean cuisine is experiencing a global boom. From K-pop to K-beauty, the Hallyu or Korean wave has swept across many cultures, and food is a big part of this trend. In fact, the export of kimchi reached record highs recently, and Korean food outlets abroad have surged by nearly 25% since 2020.
Lee began his culinary journey immersed in French cuisine. After earning three Michelin stars at his flagship restaurant, Benu, he ventured deeper into his own Korean roots. He currently runs a Michelin-awarded Korean barbecue in San Francisco, along with a new concept restaurant in Singapore and a collaboration on gourmet kimchi products.
Born in Seoul in 1977, Lee’s family moved to the U.S. when he was just five. Interestingly, his love for cooking only ignited during a summer job at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in New York. He found a sense of purpose that changed his career path entirely. Lee reflects, “I was hooked from day one.”
Initially, his parents disapproved of his cooking aspirations. It took years of success for them to see cooking as a legitimate career. Throughout his time in the kitchen, Lee mastered French techniques while also craving the flavors of his childhood. Working under chefs like Thomas Keller, he learned to celebrate the personal memories tied to food. “Keller reflected his upbringing in his dishes,” Lee notes, which inspired him to honor his Korean heritage in a similar way.
At Benu, Lee creatively marries East Asian flavors with French culinary techniques. His menu showcases ingredients like Jinhua ham and fermented chili, paired with fresh California produce. The restaurant quickly gained acclaim, receiving two Michelin stars shortly after its opening and hitting the pinnacle of three stars in 2015, a title it has retained.
Lee is part of a group of chefs who have elevated Korean cuisine from niche to mainstream in the U.S. His friend Roy Choi’s food truck, Kogi BBQ, was a game-changer, making Korean flavors accessible in new and exciting forms, such as Korean-style tacos.
In recent years, Lee has been focused on making fine dining more approachable. His latest venture, Na Oh in Singapore, aims to blend high-quality ingredients with a casual setting. The restaurant offers dishes prepared with intentional care but at a more accessible price point. Lee emphasizes the importance of maintaining high culinary standards, regardless of service style. His meals, priced at around $62, strive to provide a fine dining experience without the sticker shock.
The rise of Korean cuisine has also prompted a shift in diners’ tastes. “People are more adventurous now,” Lee observes. They are eager to explore different cultures and flavors, a sign of the growing appetite for global cuisines.
As Lee continues to explore Korean flavors with both innovation and tradition, he pays homage to his roots, allowing his culinary journey to inspire others in the gastronomic world.
