Elazar Sontag, the new food critic for The Washington Post, is shaking up the traditional ways of restaurant reviews. Instead of starting our lunch at a fancy restaurant, he brought me to a church cafeteria near Mt. Vernon Square. This spot represents what he believes food criticism should be: accessible and community-focused.
Sontag took on the role in November, stepping into the shoes of Tom Sietsema, who held the position for 25 years. Coming from Bon Appétit, he’s keen to modernize the field. One of his biggest changes? He has abandoned the practice of anonymity in reviews and brought back a star rating system. These shifts, he says, reflect a generational change and are more practical for today’s audience.
Sontag emphasizes the importance of making restaurant criticism relatable. “How do we make it feel like something everyone needs?” he asks. To him, being open and showing his face makes it easier to engage with a broader audience.
During a recent chilly afternoon, I joined Sontag at Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria, a community favorite known for its soul food. After visiting it multiple times for research, he shared that this cafeteria is more than just a place to eat; it’s a vital part of the community. “It’s almost a living piece of history,” he said, highlighting how special and unique it is compared to other more upscale eateries.
His approach reflects a broader trend in food criticism. According to a recent survey by The Pew Research Center, 66% of Americans believe that restaurant reviews should be more inclusive and reflect diverse perspectives. This shift isn’t just a personal preference; it aligns with how many people see the role of food critics today.
In a world where social media shapes opinions, Sontag’s fresh take may resonate well with diners who want authenticity. He’s not just critiquing food; he’s building a conversation about where we eat and why it matters. By framing these reviews in a more approachable way, he hopes to inspire everyone to explore and appreciate the culinary landscape of Washington, D.C.
You can listen to his full interview on Morning Edition to hear more about his vision for food criticism.
