Kim Shui, an innovative designer based in New York, recently showcased her Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Held at 583 Park Avenue during New York Fashion Week, the collection features 43 striking looks that play with the themes of sensuality and restraint. Inspired by the work of Monica Bonvicini, Shui reinvents pleather with fascinating details like laser cuts and sheer layers, creating a fresh take that challenges traditional ideas of dominance and toughness.
Shui, known for her daring women’s wear, is now stepping into the realm of menswear. This transition feels natural for her. “I’ve joked about doing menswear with friends,” she says, expressing excitement about how her designs might look on men. “It’s thrilling and unexpected.” Her previous success has paved the way for this new creative venture.
The collection is a tapestry of Western and Chinese influences. It includes playful elements like faux fur cowboy hats, Qi Pao collars, and motifs that symbolize renewal. Accessories range from utility bags inspired by bras to unique bolo tie necklaces. Through these designs, Shui is redefining cultural symbols, blending power and agency in unexpected ways.
While her women’s pieces are inherently feminine, Shui has found that when men wear them, they take on a new dynamic. “The contrast is intriguing,” she notes. “I wanted to maintain a distinct perspective, even while embracing gender fluidity in fashion.” Her designs reflect the eclectic spirit of New York, breaking norms and allowing for exploration beyond traditional boundaries.
Creating menswear presents unique challenges. Shui points out that conventional menswear often relies on basic shapes, making it harder to explore new silhouettes. Yet she’s determined to push those limits. A floral robe, for example, transforms when styled on a man, showcasing a contrast that is both tough and delicate. “It’s exciting to see how men reinterpret these pieces,” she says, emphasizing that confidence is key. “If someone feels good in what they wear, that energy is contagious.”
Shui credits New York’s vibrant, fast-paced environment for her creative success. She grew up in Rome, where she felt limited compared to the opportunities the U.S. offers. “This city fuels my drive and pushes me to break boundaries,” she reflects.
Her entrepreneurial spirit is also notable. The path to building her brand hasn’t been easy. “Persistence is crucial,” she shares, recounting her father’s immigrant journey. With little to start from, he instilled in her a mindset that values risk-taking and resilience. “Taking calculated risks is often about balancing fear with opportunity,” she advises.
On the business side, Shui acknowledges the importance of management. “Talent alone isn’t enough; you need to manage your brand well,” she explains. Early on, she juggled different jobs and even rented her apartment on Airbnb to make ends meet, all while remaining committed to her craft. Her designs, including her popular V-neck dress, are now favorites among fans and celebrities alike.
Reflecting on her journey, Shui embraces a mindset of ongoing growth and exploration. “Fashion is about trial and error,” she asserts. “Every piece is an opportunity to learn.” Through her work, she is proving that fashion can be a tool for freedom, creativity, and breaking boundaries—a message that resonates strongly in today’s evolving fashion landscape.
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