A coastal storm is set to hit Sydney and its surrounding beaches this weekend, bringing waves up to five meters high. This will create dangerous conditions for swimming, rock fishing, and boating.
What to Expect
Andrew Short, a beach scientist, explains that this storm will help reshape beaches. For weeks, surfers have faced a “wave drought,” with only small waves breaking on shore. The upcoming storm will provide a much-needed boost to surfing conditions.
The Bureau of Meteorology has issued a hazardous surf warning from Eden to the Illawarra, with Sydney beaches also affected on Saturday. Officials advise staying out of the water to avoid danger, as the waves could lead to coastal erosion and damage infrastructure.
Wave Forecasts
Senior meteorologist Angus Hines predicts waves will peak around four meters on Sydney’s coast, while offshore waves could reach five meters. Although these waves might seem smaller when crashing on the beach, they will still be powerful. The University of NSW Water Research Laboratory suggests the tallest waves may come on Sunday morning.
Professor Kristen Splinter from UNSW notes that beaches facing the southeast will experience the biggest waves. In contrast, more sheltered beaches will be less affected.
History of Wave Patterns
Historically, Sydney’s beaches can experience wild fluctuations in wave size. Some winters have brought storms with waves peaking at 14.9 meters, such as the infamous 2015 storm that battered Narrabeen. This time, however, surfers are not expecting such extremes.
Short describes how small waves this past summer have led to sand buildup, creating flat beach areas that have not been conducive to surfing. He believes the upcoming storm will help reverse this trend.
Surfer Reactions
Local surfers are cautiously optimistic. Peter Anthony, a lifelong surfer, acknowledges the summer’s unpredictable conditions. “The reason we love the ocean is because it’s always different,” he says. He enjoys swimming in waves, though they haven’t exceeded three meters this summer.
Concerns about safety in rough surf are paramount. Data from Royal Life Saving reports seven drownings in NSW during a four-day period from December 31 to January 3.
Safety Measures
The NSW Police marine command advises the following for safety:
- Avoid swimming and walking near the coast during hazardous conditions.
- Rock fishers should stay away from exposed areas.
- Boaters should carry safety equipment and adhere to local safety protocols.
As this storm approaches, surfers hope for a return to more favorable conditions. The surf may be wild, but for many, it’s also part of the excitement of ocean life.
For more insights on weather patterns and safety tips, check the Bureau of Meteorology’s website here and the Royal Life Saving reports here.
