ROME (AP) — As the Vatican prepares for the upcoming conclave to elect the next pope, a unique twist has emerged. For the first time in over 46 years, no cassocks were ordered from the two main papal tailors.
Ranieri Mancinelli, a tailor who has been crafting garments near the Vatican since the 1960s, is not deterred. He made three white cassocks—small, medium, and large—just in case. “I want to be ready for the next pope, even if I don’t know who he is,” Mancinelli shared.
On the other hand, Gammarelli, a renowned family-run tailoring shop near the Pantheon, has a long history of fulfilling cassock orders for every conclave since the early 20th century. The last time they didn’t receive an order was in October 1978, when the church elected Pope John Paul I, who served for only 33 days. Lorenzo Gammarelli, now part of the sixth generation, noted, “This year is peculiar. It seems the Vatican has enough cassocks and wants to respect Pope Francis’ message of sustainability.”
The Vatican has kept quiet about the situation. Matteo Bruni, the Vatican spokesman, stated, “Not every curiosity needs an answer.”
The papal attire typically includes a hand-stitched white wool cassock with silk buttons and a sash. Traditionally, new popes received a rich burgundy red mozzetta, but Pope Francis opted for a simpler approach during his election and continued that style throughout his papacy. His preference for plain black shoes, worn even in his final days, contrasted sharply with past styles, emphasizing his humble roots.
As the anticipation grows for the next pontiff, Gammarelli prepares by analyzing the cardinal candidates’ sizes. While it’s challenging to predict the winner, they aim to create cassocks that will fit a range of possible successors. For instance, the unexpected election of Karol Wojtyła as Pope John Paul II in 1978 was a surprise; nobody had predicted it.
Interestingly, historical incidents highlight the importance of proper sizing. When Pope John XXIII was elected in 1958, a mishap occurred when he appeared in a cassock held together with safety pins from behind due to sizing errors.
Francis’ style set a precedent for simplicity, and Mancinelli noted a distinct preference for practicality over tradition. He reflected, “Compared to previous popes, Francis favored more straightforward and functional garments.” As we await the announcement of the new pope, it remains to be seen whether he will follow Francis’ lead or revive traditional elements like red and gold attire.
For those curious about the rich history of papal dress, you can read more in this article from the [Vatican News](https://www.vaticannews.va).
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