In December 2024, Malaysia proudly celebrated when UNESCO recognized nasi lemak, roti canai, and teh tarik as part of its rich breakfast culture. These beloved dishes represent more than just food; they carry our history, identity, and sense of community.
However, we face a crucial question: how do we preserve our food heritage while also ensuring sustainable production and supply? It’s not just about looking back; we need to plan for the future with innovative strategies.
Our culinary staples depend heavily on agriculture and the environment. Climate change threatens key ingredients. Rice, essential for nasi lemak, is becoming more unstable due to extreme weather. Anchovies, crucial for sambal and nasi lemak, face risks from overfishing and warming oceans. Even coconut yields are declining from erratic weather patterns. As a result, prices for these staples continue to rise, which could hurt local hawkers and their businesses.
This rising cost is not just about expenses—it’s a matter of food security. If we don’t act, beloved heritage dishes might become luxuries rather than everyday meals. We need to invest in sustainable farming practices and responsible fishing to keep our food heritage alive.
The decline of hawker succession poses another serious challenge. Many family-run stalls with deep cultural roots are managed by older cooks, often without young apprentices to carry on the tradition. Younger generations are drawn to more conventional careers, leaving behind these culinary treasures.
Hawker culture is crucial; it’s woven into the fabric of our economy and community. Losing these food traditions would empty cities of variety and vibrancy. This isn’t merely a sentimental loss—it’s economic erosion. A study by the Malaysian Institute of Economic Research has highlighted how food culture directly supports local economies and job creation.
A study from 2023 reveals that about 68% of Malaysian youths prefer modern jobs over traditional trades, risking our culinary heritage. If we don’t find ways to attract younger cooks, we may see significant knowledge gaps over time.
We must rethink how we manage supply chains. Many ingredients travel long distances, which increases carbon emissions. For example, anchovies may be shipped from Sabah to Penang. This not only adds costs but also impacts the environment. Moreover, night markets still rely heavily on single-use plastics, and much unsold food ends up in landfills.
Solutions exist. Local sourcing can lower dependence on distant suppliers and reduce emissions. Green logistics can make transport and storing more efficient for hawkers, helping to save both money and the planet. We should also consider using environmentally friendly packaging that reconnects us with traditional practices.
For long-lasting change, collaboration is key. Businesses can seek tax relief for eco-friendly practices, while co-operatives can empower smaller producers to organize resources effectively. Current government policies, like the National Agrofood Policy 2.0, already support sustainability; the challenge is in bringing them to life on the ground.
Legal protections, such as geographical indications (GI), have worked well for products like Sarawak pepper. Expanding GI protections to more heritage foods could safeguard authenticity while boosting local economies.
Community-driven solutions are vital. Pairing experienced hawkers with eager young chefs can transfer skills and keep traditions alive. Universities can also play a role by documenting traditional recipes and training new entrepreneurs in sustainable practices.
Embracing sustainability accounting can help us measure the broader impacts of heritage food. This perspective shows that our culinary heritage is not just a liability; it’s an asset that can drive economic and cultural growth.
Heritage food is more than just flavors; it shapes Malaysia’s identity and supports our economy. Tourists flock here for authentic dishes, not fast food. If we lose our heritage, we risk losing a vital part of our culture and economy.
In conclusion, protecting our food heritage is a national commitment. By blending tradition with modern sustainability practices, we can ensure that dishes like nasi kerabu and satay remain in our lives for future generations. This is not just about food; it’s about our identity and future.
Dr. Dalilawati Zainal is a senior lecturer in the Department of Accounting at the University of Malaya.
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street food,sustainability