Grandparents often hold our cherished culinary memories. Jeremy Salamon, a second-generation Hungarian Jew in New York, honors his grandma Agi at his Crown Heights restaurant, Agi’s Counter. In his cookbook, Second Generation: Hungarian and Jewish Classics Reimagined for the Modern Table, he shares not just recipes but also the love and wisdom behind them.
When talking about the book with Evan Kleiman, Jeremy emphasizes the vibrant colors of Hungarian food, aiming to differentiate his work from traditional cookbooks. He fondly recalls visits to his Grandma Agi’s cozy apartment in Boca Raton, filled with the delightful scents of frying chicken cutlets and the joy of homemade chocolate milkshakes.
One dish that stands out in Hungarian cuisine is palascinta, a stuffed crepe. Jeremy describes them as light, made with egg, flour, milk, and soda water. His grandmother would serve palascinta with a variety of toppings, earning it a playful nickname: “Palascinta Americana.” This twist added a fun, DIY element to family meals.
Food historian and culinary expert Dr. Jennifer B. Quigley highlights that Hungarian cuisine is known for its diverse flavors and textures, often influenced by surrounding cultures. This richness can be seen in Jeremy’s reimagining of traditional dishes. He observes that many elements of Hungarian cooking, such as stone fruits, are often overlooked. In fact, cherries, apricots, and plums grow abundantly in Hungary, and Jeremy incorporates these flavors into his dishes, showcasing their floral acidity.
Soup is another staple in Hungarian cuisine, often considered a communal dish. Growing up, there were always at least two types of soup on Grandma Agi’s table. Today, Jeremy carries on this tradition by offering various soups at Agi’s Counter.
Jeremy also embraces modern twists on classic recipes. For instance, his vegetarian schnitzel uses turnips for a unique texture that appeals even to children. Similarly, his chicken paprikash comes in two versions: a traditional recipe and a modern take that features a flavorful dressing made with roasted chicken and fresh herbs.
To elevate traditional dishes, Jeremy insists on the importance of high-quality ingredients. He recommends using freshly ground paprika rather than a long-forgotten can, as the spice’s vibrancy is essential to authentic flavors. He sources his paprika from Burlap & Barrel, a company known for its commitment to quality.
Overall, Jeremy Salamon’s journey back to his roots has transformed his understanding of food and identity. His dishes not only preserve Hungarian flavors but also invite others to experience them in new and exciting ways.
For anyone interested in exploring Hungarian cuisine, these insights and anecdotes offer a window into its rich tradition. Whether you’re cooking for yourself or sharing a meal with friends, Jeremy’s approach emphasizes nostalgia, creativity, and the beauty of cultural heritage.
For more about the intricacies of Hungarian cuisine, refer to the work of food historians and experts like those found in the archives of The Association of Hungarian Cultural Societies.
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