Reviving Lundy’s: Navigating the Risks and Rewards of Restaurant Comebacks

Lundy’s has found a new home in an unusual spot. It’s now in a small building nestled in a gated lot, with the local school buses nearby and the vast IKEA parking lot just across the street. Once a sprawling restaurant, it now fits fewer than 100 diners. Inside, the brick walls don’t add much charm. The gray carpet, plain white tablecloths, and cream chairs don’t give it a cozy vibe. The big window looks out at a stark loading dock crane, making even a busy night feel empty and temporary. Despite the new owners’ respect for Lundy’s past, the essence of its original charm seems lost. The new space lacks the character and warmth that once defined it.

However, the menu does pay homage to Lundy’s classic offerings. The focus here is on generous portions rather than fancy quality. The late restaurant critic Gael Greene famously called Lundy’s a “fortress of gourmandise and sensory insult,” and the new Lundy’s follows that tradition with decent food portions. Start with the well-known biscuits, which are good but not extraordinary. For dessert, try the huckleberry pie served with a scoop of melting ice cream. In the middle, you’ll find a selection of chilled seafood, such as sweet oysters and juicy shrimp. There’s even a broiled lobster and a crispy-skinned half chicken with a flavorful jus. A standout side is the Lundy’s potatoes, perfectly cooked and served with caramelized onions. The Shore Dinner is back, too, though it’s now a simpler three-course option with just soup and salad before dessert.

The bar features a stage for live music, giving the atmosphere a lively touch. There’s a remarkably juicy burger on the menu, alongside a tasty fried calamari appetizer that packs a punch. Although I never dined at the original Lundy’s, its reputation looms large in NYC’s dining scene. New Yorkers often reminisce about the places they’ve lost. We might mock new trends fifty years from now, but that sense of nostalgia keeps the city’s food culture rich and vibrant.

Today, Lundy’s feels like a different restaurant, almost a tribute rather than a true revival. The catch of the day might even be a branzino, far from local waters. If Irving Lundy were to walk in now, he might be shocked—and perhaps disappointed—by the changes. But Lundy’s continues to be a part of Brooklyn’s food story, and that connection, whether strong or weak, is something to cherish.