Savor the Flavors of Victoria: A Culinary Journey Through Local Delights

I’m relaxing in a plush chair at the Fairmont Empress hotel in Victoria, enjoying a stunning view of the Inner Harbour while savoring a piece of luxurious chocolate.

The executive pastry chef, Gerald Tan, shares, “This milk chocolate has a richer taste with 46.5% cacao. I added a touch of salt and hints of caramel and honey, inspired by the ocean’s beauty. We named it Golden Aura for our breathtaking sunsets.”

These new signature chocolates are a first for a Victoria hotel, and they truly shine. Gerald’s goal was to create something special that embodies both the Empress and the essence of Victoria.

The second chocolate, Midnight Bloom, boasts a delightful dark chocolate with 66.8% cacao. It features flavors of woodsy bark, local red berries, and a whisper of rose to celebrate the city’s gardens. Gerald describes it as intense, with notes reminiscent of olives and wine. “It’s richer than average dark chocolate, smooth without any bitterness.”

To find the perfect flavor blend, Gerald journeyed to Paris to explore high-quality chocolate maker Barry Callebaut. “It’s a process of narrowing down chocolate notes,” he explains. “I aimed for something floral and fruity. The result was three recipes that we narrowed down to the best fit for the Empress.”

Gerald has honed his craft over ten years, and moving to Victoria from Toronto brought its own excitement and challenges. “It was pressure to express the hotel’s story through chocolate,” he laughs. “I dug deep into the history of the Fairmont Empress and Victoria itself.”

Each piece of chocolate features an embossed emblem that showcases the hotel’s historical roots. The emblem includes a cougar, which symbolizes the local wildlife—Vancouver Island hosts the highest concentration of cougars globally—a reminder of the unique environment surrounding the Empress.

These signature chocolates are not just a sweet treat; they are also featured in the popular afternoon tea at the hotel. The four-piece bonbon box ($20) showcases local flavors like Empress honey, harvested on-site, and delicious raspberry ganache. There’s even a tea-infused Earl Grey bonbon, a nod to the hotel’s tradition.

Gerald’s team continually crafts fresh desserts, from homemade ice cream to a twist on a classic, the Gin Baba, made with the hotel’s signature Empress 1908 Gin. Making everything from scratch is essential to Gerald. “It fosters pride and creativity within the team. You won’t find our desserts anywhere else!”

Lisa McPhail, the hotel’s PR director, expresses her excitement about the ever-changing menu. “I’ve never been a huge chocolate fan, yet here I am!” she laughs.

As I savor the final bite of Midnight Bloom, decorated with rose petals and freeze-dried raspberries, I can’t help but ask Gerald if you can ever have too much chocolate. “I have a sweet tooth, so it’s hard not to indulge! We taste everything we create, and I enjoy dessert every night at home,” he shares with a grin.

In the world of luxury desserts, these chocolates are more than just treats—they’re a delicious slice of Victoria’s heritage and creativity, reminding us of the beauty that surrounds the Empress.

You can find more about the Fairmont Empress and its culinary offerings at Fairmont Hotels.

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Food and Drink