PARIS — It all started nearly 170 years ago when a shopkeeper, Xavier Ruel, opened his store in Paris. His goal? Good quality at fair prices. That store became the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, or BHV, a beloved department store.
Today, people flock to BHV for everything from kitchen gadgets to clothing, especially during the festive season. But recently, BHV has found itself at the center of a significant debate about fast fashion. On November 1, Shein, the Chinese online retail giant known for ultra-fast fashion, plans to open its first permanent boutique inside BHV. This has stirred deep concerns among many, as France values craftsmanship and sustainability.
Inside BHV, aisles appear eerily empty. Some French brands have withdrawn in protest. Marie Cosson, a loyal customer, expressed her heartbreak: “The store has sold its soul to the devil,” she lamented while saying goodbye to staff.
In 2023, a property group called Société des Grands Magasins purchased BHV. This same group is working with Shein to target a younger audience. This partnership has sparked a counter-movement focused on sustainable fashion. In the 11th arrondissement, activists have established “Une Autre Mode Est Possible,” or “Another Fashion Is Possible.” Founded by Arielle Lévy, this initiative promotes slow fashion and sustainability through workshops on using recycled materials. Lévy has even launched a petition against Shein, garnering over 100,000 signatures.
Paris City Hall has echoed the community’s concerns. Florentin Letissier, deputy mayor for sustainability, condemned Shein’s model as one that represents exploitation and environmental harm. He said, “These are cheap clothes made in modern slavery conditions.”
Recent investigations, such as a 2024 report by the Zurich-based watchdog Public Eye, found alarming working conditions in Shein’s factories, revealing employees working up to 75-hour weeks under tough circumstances.
Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo labeled Shein’s presence as “a betrayal of Paris’ values.” Meanwhile, France’s lawmakers are acting quickly to counter the rise of ultra-fast fashion. A bill passed in June aims to ban ads for such brands and impose fines and an environmental tax on them by 2030. Shein has already faced hefty fines for misleading advertising.
Marie-Emmanuelle Demours, CEO of French label Paul & Joe, criticized Shein’s model, stating, “They don’t respect creativity.” Demours highlighted the craftsmanship that goes into her brand’s pieces, contrasting it with Shein’s mass production.
Thibaut Ledunois, from the French Fashion Council, warned that Shein’s goals extend beyond fashion, aiming to dominate the retail landscape. “Their strategy is to become the supermarket of the world,” he pointed out, adding to the public’s alarm about Shein’s growing influence.
As this debate unfolds, it’s clear that Parisians are committed to preserving their heritage of quality and sustainability in fashion. In a world moving fast, many are choosing to slow down their consumption and support local artisans and sustainable brands. This fight continues, ensuring that Xavier Ruel’s vision for fair quality products remains alive.
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