In Milwaukee, getting fresh groceries can be quite a challenge. Many neighborhoods are considered “food deserts,” where people have limited access to healthy, affordable food. This issue is deep-rooted in history and often tied to social inequalities and transport difficulties.
Dr. Kirk Harris, an associate professor at UW–Milwaukee, defines a food desert as an area lacking fresh, nutritious options. He emphasizes that these shortages directly impact health outcomes. In 2015, a report indicated there were 13 food deserts in Milwaukee County. Dr. Christopher Simenz from the Medical College of Wisconsin notes that around one in five residents live in these areas, particularly on the north side of Milwaukee, where grocery stores are closing rapidly.
The term “food apartheid,” coined by activist Karen Washington, better describes this problem. It captures how long-standing policies and practices, like redlining, have created these food shortages.
Milwaukee’s segregation issues contribute significantly to food scarcity. Harris points out that the city’s segregation leads to various inequalities, including food access. This situation becomes particularly tough for families who often have to choose between paying for food or rent.
Transportation can also be a major hurdle. Even if a grocery store is nearby, getting there can be tough without a car. Dr. Simenz mentions public transport challenges, highlighting that long trips can turn simple grocery runs into significant obstacles, particularly when kids are involved. Changes to transit routes further complicate access, making it harder for residents to obtain fresh food.
Cost is another barrier. In economically vulnerable communities, the price of food adds another layer of difficulty. When groceries are expensive, even nearby stores are out of reach. Dr. Simenz shares that many full-service markets charge premium prices for essential items, making them unaffordable for some families.
As grocery stores disappear, the health consequences multiply. Areas flooded with unhealthy food options—termed “food swamps”—lack access to fresh produce and lead to poor nutritional choices. Simenz notes that people can consume enough calories without receiving proper nutrition, which is a dangerous trend.
Despite these challenges, communities are starting to fight back. Support for local stores is critical. Sherman Park Grocery, for example, opened in 2022 in a food desert, partnering with local organizations to provide grab-and-go healthy meals.
Community-driven solutions are popping up. Initiatives like mobile markets and food pantries aim to fill the gaps left by disappearing grocery stores. Organizations like NourishMKE and Feeding America are crucial in this fight, focusing not just on food distribution but on education as well.
Dr. Simenz believes addressing food insecurity affects the entire city. Lack of access to healthy food can lead to decreased productivity, impacting employment and education. Harris stresses that solving the problem will require both immediate actions and long-term policy changes to encourage retailers to move into underserved areas.
As the food desert issue deepens, it’s clear that communities are not merely facing a personal choice about what to eat. These challenges stem from broader systemic issues, and addressing them will take collective effort and commitment.
For more details, you can explore the Near West Side Food Access Project.
