Unveiling Gilgamesh, London: A Unique Dining Experience Through a Culinary Adventure

Gilgamesh is located at 4a Upper St Martin’s Lane, London WC2H 9NY. Prices range for small plates from £7 to £19, large plates from £9 to £42, and desserts at £9. Wine starts at £38.

I got a message on a Monday: “Gilgamesh London. It’s our Birthday! ONE milestone gift to you,” they announced with an enthusiastic flair. The offer? Half off their a la carte menu. Perfect, except I was already set to go there the next day. Later, I came across ads plastered across a website, promoting a deal for three courses for £20. It felt a bit too eager, but I brushed it off.

Gilgamesh first opened its doors back in 2006, costing over £12 million to create an eye-catching restaurant in Camden Market. It was a giant space for up to 570 diners filled with bright art inspired by the Babylonian King Gilgamesh. The food offered a mix of Asian dishes, which felt a bit scattered and not particularly authentic. After some ups and downs, it closed in 2018, only to reopen a year later in a new location.

My curiosity got the better of me; I needed to see if the revamped Gilgamesh would be any better than before. Surprisingly, the place was packed on a weeknight, with loud chatter echoing across the venue. They even had a private party going on, which left no room for my bag in the cloakroom. We were eventually seated under outdoor heaters to ward off the chill but soon had to move as we started to feel uncomfortably warm.

The restaurant’s gold decor from its Camden days was still there, albeit showing signs of wear. We were here to explore a unique “culinary journey” inspired by the ancient tales of Gilgamesh. Our first dish, prawn crackers served in a plastic takeaway bag, left much to be desired. They came with bland tomato salsa that offered zero flavor.

One standout dish was the £16 popcorn shrimp. They were served in a fun martini glass and were hot and crunchy. Sadly, we couldn’t find the promised spicy chipotle mayo. We also ordered sushi but received the wrong roll at first. When the correct dragon roll arrived, it was decent, yet nothing special. The crispy duck salad was far less impressive, as it was overly sweet with no balance.

The wait for our main courses stretched longer than expected. When they finally arrived, the lemongrass chicken was bland, and the beef rendang was even worse—a poorly executed sloppy dish devoid of flavor. The roti that came with it was greasy and unattractive.

We tried a cauliflower and asparagus fried rice, but it tasted like leftover, overcooked cauliflower from a cheap pub meal. Asparagus, which was out of season, was noticeably missing from the dish. The waiter was great, trying to assist amid the restaurant’s chaos, and even offered to replace it.

We attempted to enjoy a cheap bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to wash down the meal, but it didn’t quite help. Reflecting on the experience, I felt let down. It appeared that the focus at Gilgamesh shifted away from food to creating a lively atmosphere. The extravagant decor and buzz of the crowd painted the set, but the food didn’t back it up. After the pricey meal, we left feeling unsatisfied and opted for ice cream at a nearby shop instead. Simple but delightful, it really made my evening better.

Even though dining at Gilgamesh was meant to be special, it didn’t live up to my hopes. It was more about the scene than the meal itself.

News Bites

Gordon Ramsay is taking over the former Le Gavroche site, which closed in early 2024 after 56 years. His restaurant group has acquired the premises license and has appointed Silvano Giraldin, a notable figure in hospitality, as the supervisor. Chef Matt Abé from Restaurant Gordon Ramsay will lead the new menu.

Chef Ayesha Kalaji, known for her work at Queen of Cups in Glastonbury, will present a special Iftar menu at the Intercontinental London Park Lane starting February 29. Her menu will feature dishes like braised pressed hogget and rosewater rice pudding.

Bath is set to host its first Restaurant Week from May 3 to 11, allowing local eateries to showcase unique dishes. The event will also include a Waiters Race to raise funds for Hospitality Action.

Email Jay at jay.rayner@observer.co.uk or follow him on Instagram @jayrayner1