Why Even Jeff Bezos Can’t Reserve a Table at L.A.’s Most Exclusive Restaurant

On June 25, Somni, a cozy restaurant in West Hollywood, received its third Michelin star, a remarkable honor shared by only 16 restaurants in the U.S. This prestigious award was presented at a Michelin ceremony in Sacramento, highlighting the restaurant’s excellence. Somni wasn’t just awarded this star; it faced a tough challenge when it closed during the pandemic in 2020, just a year and a half after opening.

Chef Aitor Zabala, who trained under acclaimed chef José Andrés in Barcelona, held onto his vision for a unique dining experience. When Somni reopened in November 2024, it garnered even more acclaim. Now, landing a reservation for one of the 14 seats feels like winning the lottery; the dining experience features around 25 carefully crafted courses, each priced at about $500 per person, or $720 with wine pairings.

Zabala shared valuable insights in a recent interview:

What does earning a third Michelin star mean?
"It’s a massive achievement. Only 150 restaurants worldwide have received this honor. It represents years of hard work and continuous improvement."

Are they clear about why you earned it?
"They don’t explain the decision. The third star tells diners it’s worth traveling anywhere to visit."

You moved from Barcelona to L.A. What drew you here?
"I came to the U.S. in 2010 due to an economic crisis in Spain. I initially felt uncertain about D.C. but fell in love with L.A.’s sunny weather and fresh local ingredients. It reminded me of Barcelona."

Where do you get inspiration for your dishes?
"Creativity is what lured me into this business 30 years ago. During our lengthy closure, we had time to innovate. We used our test kitchen to experiment with ideas."

How did you navigate the pandemic?
"It was tough for everyone. I relied on my partners’ support and was determined to bring Somni back. After being closed for nearly five years, things had changed tremendously."

Rising costs have become a significant challenge post-pandemic. "Everything is more expensive now—from ingredients to wages," Zabala noted. This makes running a restaurant incredibly challenging, whether it’s fine dining or casual.

Now, with a small number of seats, a reservation system opens once a month, ensuring fairness. Even if high-profile figures approach for a table, the answer remains no.

Zabala explained, "We want every guest to feel special. Our goal is to create memories through food."

For those curious about the restaurant scene today, it’s worth noting that the current environment is fostering both challenges and opportunities. Many restaurant owners face similar battles, but those who prioritize quality and creativity, like Zabala, are finding ways to thrive.

In a world that feels increasingly competitive, this dedication to artistry and experience shows that even amidst struggles, passion in the culinary world remains strong.

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