Ernest Ang, a 24-year-old from Singapore, always had a passion for cooking. Growing up, he wasn’t allowed in the kitchen unsupervised; his family worried he might create chaos. When he first mentioned opening a restaurant, his grandmother was skeptical. After all, he had a history of wild ideas.
Ernest’s love for food comes from his grandmother, who used to run a hawker stall serving Peranakan cuisine. This unique blend of Malay and Chinese flavors is rich and aromatic. In 2023, he decided to turn his dream into reality despite facing challenges like high rents and finding customers.
After studying electronics engineering, Ernest quickly discovered that a desk job was not for him. He explored other fields but realized that cooking was where his heart lay. “Why not start a restaurant?” his friends suggested. Inspired, he reached out to his grandmother for guidance.
His grandmother, however, was protective of her recipes, treating them like precious secrets. Undeterred, Ernest spent months observing her cooking and meticulously noting her methods, even as she measured ingredients by instinct. Eventually, he cracked the code of her recipes, adapting them for a restaurant setting.
In August 2024, he launched Kokoyo Nyonya Delights. He invested SG$80,000 (around $62,000) and opened a small eatery in Serangoon, paying SG$13,500 in rent monthly. With help from friends, he created a menu that celebrated popular dishes like inchi kabin (fried chicken) and beef rendang.
Every dish had to pass his grandmother’s inspection. Since he lacked formal culinary training, her approval meant everything. The cooking process was intensive—cooking rice alone took three hours! Ernest began work at 9 AM and often left well past 9 PM, preferring to serve fresh meals straight from the kitchen.
After an article brought in many customers, the reality of running a restaurant hit hard. The demand was overwhelming and left him scrambling to adapt. He had to make tough decisions, such as switching from traditional cooking methods to more efficient techniques.
Less than a year in, the pressure forced him to reconsider his location. High rent and an older neighborhood led him to downsize to a smaller stall in a more affluent area. This new spot cut his rent in half and brought in a clientele ready to spend. Still, the adjustment wasn’t easy. Ernest realized that long hours and constant challenges are part of the gig. Yet, he finds satisfaction in the unpredictability of each day.
Despite the sacrifices—including less time with friends—Ernest remains passionate. He believes in the value of hard work and the joy of sharing his family’s culinary heritage. “I have no regrets,” he says, reflecting on the journey. “Every challenge has just made me stronger.”
As of now, the Peranakan cuisine is gaining popularity, with reports indicating a resurgence of interest in traditional foods among younger generations. Leftovers from historical traditions continue to inspire chefs and restaurant owners like Ernest, proving that with perseverance, dreams can turn into reality. For more insights on the resurgence of traditional cuisines, you can explore research from the [National Restaurant Association](https://restaurant.org).
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