Savoring Rajasthan: A Culinary Journey from Vibrant Street Food to Exquisite Royal Feasts

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Savoring Rajasthan: A Culinary Journey from Vibrant Street Food to Exquisite Royal Feasts

By Nikhil Merchant

As a kid, I looked forward to my yearly trips to Rajasthan. The journey always started with a long train ride from Mumbai to Udaipur. We would reach the charming city of lakes by morning, which meant the adventure was just beginning. From the Udaipur station, we took a cab for about two hours to Nathdwara, a town famous for its temples. I can still hear the bustling sounds of the vendors and smell the spices filling the air as we walked those narrow streets.

Once we arrived, breakfast was a must. I still remember the thick, spicy-sweet kulhad chai served in little clay cups, warming me against the cool morning breeze. Alongside that, the unique purple yam chaat, with crispy fried pieces seasoned with red chili and amchur, was a delight. We couldn’t leave without stopping by Shreeji Sweets in Mava Bhandar, where Chandu Ji made the legendary Lache Wali Rabri. His sweets, celebrated for their connection to Krishna, featured Heera Mani, a Bengali-inspired treat made with pure milk, named after his wife, Hira Bai.

This early love for Nathdwara’s street food ignited my passion for Rajasthani cuisine, which grew to include traditional dishes like ker sangri and laal maas.

Flavours of Rajasthan

Rajasthan is a land steeped in history, from its royal traditions to its rich culinary landscape. Each city here tells a different story, revealing the region’s culture through its food. Barwara and Udaipur are two highlights, showcasing how food connects to history and innovation. Barwara, near Sawai Madhopur, prides itself on local produce. Their famous dish, Ro Saagri ki Sabji, reflects a commitment to sustainability using local beans and berries.

At Six Senses Fort Barwara, Chef Charul Srivastav prepares Rajasthani thalis in a way that honors local ingredients. The kitchen’s focus on slow cooking aligns with Ayurvedic principles, allowing the dishes to shine. The chefs also create new takes on familiar recipes, like barley risotto with regional flavors.

Udaipur adds its own touch to these culinary traditions. The Ambrai Restaurant, overlooking Lake Pichola, offers traditional meals like Dal Baati Churma and Gatte ki Sabji, drawing inspiration from the royal kitchens of the past. Amet Haveli, a heritage hotel, features dishes highlighting local corn, showcasing a true taste of Udaipur’s agricultural bounty. We find unique options here, such as Maans ka Soyeta or spicy samosas paired with local raita.

Popular spots like JMB near Surajpol and Lala Misthan near Ghanta Ghar offer classic Rajasthani dishes like Safed Maas and Dhungar Maas. Mewari Dal, a hearty lentil dish served with corn dhokla, provides a comforting meal experience. Local sweets, like the delicate ghewar and rich mawa kachori, have stood the test of time.

Culinary Connections

Jaisalmer and Pushkar, despite their differences, share a deep connection to food and culture. In Jaisalmer, the local sweet shops have a long-standing tradition. The famed Dhanraj Ranmal Bhatia’s khoya and rabri have become local treasures. Suryagarh Jaisalmer incorporates local produce into its dishes, offering inventive takes on classic recipes.

Pushkar, a town overflowing with spirituality, offers a culinary experience that ties food with its rituals. Khasta kachoris near the Brahma Temple and syrup-soaked malpua from Sarvadia Sweet Shop highlight this connection. The lassi shops along the ghats provide refreshing, thick drinks, perfect for the heat.

At Ananta Spa & Resort, Pushkar’s essence is expressed in a menu inspired by local temple cuisine. Dishes are prepared with local ingredients, offering guests a farm-to-table experience amidst blooming roses, a serene setting for a memorable meal.

Street Food Paradise

Jodhpur’s food scene is vibrant, starting from the royal kitchens at Mehrangarh Fort, where they serve specialties like Laal Maas. But there’s more to discover beyond royal banquets. Local favorites such as Dal Moth and Pyaaz ki Kachori showcase the flavors of everyday Jodhpur cuisine. Solanki Sweets is known for its unique twists on traditional pastries, while Choudhary Namkeen serves must-try Mirchi Bada.

Moving to Jaipur, the streets are alive with famous snacks like creamy lassi and crispy kachoris. The Johri Hotel’s Chef Sonu Singh puts a modern spin on classic flavors, offering dishes like Mohan Maas and creative takes on ghewar.

Bikaner is home to the iconic Bikaneri Bhujia, born from tradition yet still thriving in street food culture. At Narendra Bhawan, Chef Vijay Kumar Sahi elevates Bikaner’s culinary heritage, focusing on the region’s authentic flavors while adapting them for contemporary tastes.

Rajasthan’s culinary identity blends history and innovation, reflecting a commitment to sustainability and local produce. Each dish tells a story of connection to the land and its people, creating a vibrant tapestry of flavors that continue to evolve.

Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food & beverage expert, consultant, and writer.

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