A Seattle man, Anton Tselykh, recently survived a harrowing climbing accident in the North Cascades, where he fell roughly 400 feet. He’s now in satisfactory condition at a hospital, and he’s sharing his experience with Okanogan County officials.
On Saturday, Tselykh and three others were trying to reach the summit of Early Winter North Spire when things went terribly wrong. They decided to turn back due to worsening weather. While rappelling down, the group faced a significant issue: their anchor failed.
Okanogan County Search and Rescue coordinator, Cristine Woodworth, explained that Tselykh confirmed their fears about the incident. The group was using an old piton—an anchor from a previous climber—when it gave way. “All four climbers were on the same piton,” she noted.
Larry Goldie from North Cascades Mountain Guides emphasized that the route was challenging and cautioned that climbing conditions can change rapidly, especially in spring when snow melts and rocks become loose.
At around 5:30 PM, the climbers fell as daylight faded. Tselykh lost consciousness but awoke hours later. Despite his injuries, which included head trauma and internal bleeding, he managed to free himself from the climbing gear and hike about three-quarters of a mile down a steep terrain. It took him roughly eight hours to reach safety, including a 40-mile drive to Newhalem to call for help. Remarkably, the North Cascades Highway had only just opened a few days earlier.
This incident raises questions about climbing safety. Data from a 2022 National Park Service report shows a rise in climbing accidents related to weather conditions and equipment failures. An expert in climbing safety, Dr. Molly Adams, emphasized the importance of reliable gear and the need for climbers to monitor weather conditions closely.
“Climbers must be prepared for sudden changes in the mountains,” she said. “Awareness can save lives.”
Tselykh’s story is a stark reminder of the risks associated with climbing and how preparation and quick thinking can make a difference in emergencies.
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Climber,North Cascades,Fall,Anton Tselykh,Anchor failure,Okanogan County,Rescue,Bad weather