Unplug and Escape: Discover the Timeless Charm of Owey Island, Ireland’s Hidden Gem

Located off the coast of Donegal, this car-free isle was last home to full-time residents in the ’70s. Now, locals are bringing back a lost way of life, welcoming bold travellers.

On Friday nights, Owey Island feels like a journey back in time. The scent of burning turf fills the air as locals bustle around their tidy homes, sharing meals of freshly caught fish. Friendly dogs play, and chickens roam freely. The sounds of the waves blend with laughter, creating a vibrant atmosphere on an island that had been silent for years.

This little gem in the Atlantic is about 15 minutes by boat from Cruit Island. Owey, or Uaigh in Irish, which means “cave,” captures the spirit of the ocean. Visitors can’t reach it by ferry; they must kayak or take a private boat. The island lacks electricity and running water, making it a true escape from modern life with only the lights from the mainland as a reminder of it.

Once home to around 100 residents, Owey saw its last full-time inhabitants leave in 1977. For over 25 years, the island remained deserted, succumbing to nature. Until recently, the former charm of Owey was mostly forgotten.

During my visit, I joined the Wild Women of the Woods, a group encouraging women to experience nature. Rachel Pedder, the heart behind this organization, wanted us to explore a place off the beaten path.

Rachel noted, “It’s a challenge to get here. Unlike other islands with easy ferry access, Owey is truly a community space. Respecting their way of life is key.”

Paul Cowan, who returned to Owey, spent his teenage years there. His family sought refuge from Belfast’s troubles by moving to the island. “My mother is from a nearby island,” he said. “The Troubles were escalating, and my father felt an island was the best place for us.”

Years later, he and his brother visited Owey with their families. They found it desolate but beautiful and saw the potential for family getaways. Together, they started renovating the old family home.

As they restored their property, others who had childhood ties to the island felt inspired to return too. They faced the task of repairing the old homes, with all materials needing to be transported by boat. Today, about 20 homes stand, welcoming a seasonal community of 20-30 residents. There’s also one hostel and space for camping, but no shops.

Owey’s uniqueness attracts both locals and visitors. The seasonal residents value the island’s untouched beauty. Many come to unplug from life’s chaos or seek adventure, like kayaking in the stunning sea caves or climbing the cliffs.

During our stay, six of us occupied the Owey Island Cottage Hostel run by Niall McGinley, while others camped nearby.

The hostel, once McGinley’s grandmother’s home, is the last house on the island to have been lived in. It kept much of its old-world charm with two bedrooms and a cozy living area with a simple gas stove and an open fire.

One local, Frankie Gallagher, returned to his ancestral home after growing up in Scotland. He expressed his intent to keep the island free from electricity: “We manage well without it,” he said.

Using gas and solar energy, the islanders harness rainwater to meet their needs. This allows for a bit of comfort, like a gas shower, but they remain conscious of their limited water supply.

Living without electricity allows for stunning sunsets and starry nights. The only sounds are nature’s chorus and perhaps a corn crake bird, often heard in summer.

The hostel, a short stroll from the docks, offers a cozy stay. I settled in and then headed to a nearby ravine for a refreshing swim, enjoying the golden sun on the water.

Despite no power lines, internet works well on Owey. Just remember to bring a portable charger for your devices, since there won’t be any outlets.

The island covers just over 300 acres. The southern part is lush and green, while the northern end is rugged with high cliffs and rocky shores. The “village center” sits along a meandering stream, surrounded by hills.

Old stone ruins from the past still stand, including an abandoned schoolhouse. Signs of new life are also evident, with gardens and tools scattered about.

In contrast, the northern side is wild and rough. It’s home to magnificent cliffs and sea caves, making it a breathtaking sight.

One unforgettable highlight was a thrilling kayaking tour led by Selkie Sailing. We paddled for three hours around stunning rock formations, feeling a rush of excitement as we navigated the island’s coastline.

For a more relaxed day, we ventured to a clifftop lake suggested by a local. Climbing lush hills took us to a serene spot overlooking the sea, perfect for a refreshing dip.

The swim was invigorating in crystal-clear water, surrounded by mossy rocks. It felt wonderful to share this moment with new friends and escape to “island time,” free from our daily roles.

Our final evening mirrored our lovely stay. We cooked outside as the sun set, shared a delicious meal, and gathered around the campfire for songs with locals we had become friends with.

As we relaxed by the fire, one campmate smiled and said, “We’re winning here, right?” Even though we had only just met, I understood her completely: the fresh air, the songs, the stars… Owey truly felt like paradise.